On June 22, 2011, PCARRD and PCAMRD was consolidated and is now known as the Philippine Council for Agriculture, Aquatic, and Natural Resources Research and Development or PCAARRD. WELCOME! This forum is venue for the dynamic exchange of knowledge and experience among experts, farmers, and industry practitioners in the agriculture, aquatic and natural resources (AANR) sectors. As our clients, we value your comments and inquiries. Reminder: Please use the SEARCH FUNCTION first before creating a new topic. To all backyard swine beginners and experienced baboyeros alike, After suggestions from friends, we are opening this thread to re-open the deleted thread 'Our Baboyang Walang Amoy, Deep Bedding System'.
The new title shall cover expanded topics to discuss alternative feeds to the more costly commercial feeds, and also to discuss ways on how to solve the continuing lower cost of live weight prices. We also believe that this thread should discuss lower cost of pig housing so that the savings can be used to buying piglets and feeds to start the business the soonest possible time. All contributors from regions in the Philippines and even abroad are invited and welcomed to contribute in this thread whether they are tested effective practices.
Baboyang Walang Amoy Technology
For beginners to emulate or constructive postings, to improve on existing practices. If someone has posted a question related to the above topic, we would appreciate an answer from those experts or experienced members. BTW, for the benefit of all members, while it is easy to delete one's own post, it is not easy to delete one's own thread. Here are the procedures to delete one's own thread: 1. Go to the top of PCAARRD Message Board Message Central Spam Reporting and if you see a posting by Admin, click on the date in 'blue'.
2, You will be forwarded to a screen where you will be allowed to email the administrator regarding your request to delete your own thread. You will receive an email later that your request was granted. You can now go to the thread that you want to be deleted. You may now delete your own thread and all posts of other members in that thread. In the the other section, the high cost of yellow corn nowadays is causing the upward movement of animal feed's cost, even for those who are mixing their own animal feed. Somebody mentioned that a combination of rice bran and vegetable oil or used cooking oil (waste from fastfood chain or restaurants) will provide the required metabolized energy required by the pig. This is an alternative that backyard raisers may look into in order to minimize the effect of high cost of yellow corn.
I also mentioned in the other sections that a study done in Colombia that was published by the Food Administration Organization of the United Nations, that crude palm oil or palm oil fruit could be used as substitute, partly or wholly, for sorghum (more or less equivalent to yellow corn in terms of nutritional value). Also, fresh fruit of oil palm is rich in beta carotene, similar to yellow corn. In certain areas in Mindanao (Surigao, Cotabato, Sultan Kudarat, Davao, etc.) and the provinces of Bohol and Palawan are now developing oil palm plantations. Hog raisers in those areas may have the option to use palm oil fruits or its by-products in animal feed. Wintuha wrote: Wrangler, Try to calculate the crude protein and metabolized energy of the mixture of copra meal, yellow corn and rice bran. For grower na 35-60 kg and required cp is around 18% and metabolized energy is 3000 kcal/kg Kung yung 4 ingredients lang gagamitin mo, mejo mahirap ipa 18% crude protein since copra is about 20%CP, and palm kernel meal is about 19%CP. I dont know nga lang how the CP would differ from fresh palm to palm kernel meal.
If you wanted to reach 18%CP that would mean almost 85%PKM is to 15%d1 74%Copra is to 26%d1 91%PKM is to 9%corn 84%PKM is to 16% corn Siguro if you add soybean meal mas plausible pa to come up with a balanced ration. But kung pang dagdag lang tlga sa pagkain ng baboy para di maxado magastos sa feed cost, then dont sweat it too much.
Basta di maxado na-affect performance di ba? Trial and error nlng to which ratio is best! What I mean sir is yung mga feedstuff na nabangit ko eh bale ihahalo ko lang po sa daily ration ng mga finisher ko. Pero syempre ang main purpose ko is to lessen my cost of production ko kasi may corn field, at may mga coconut naman kami dito at ang rice bran ay mabibili ko lang sa murang halaga kasi may rice mill ang tito ko. That's why if ihahalo ko na mga yun babawasan ko naman yung amount of commercial feeds na binibigay. Pero di ko alam if maganda outcome nito kasi hindi ko alam ang level ng mga cp content, calcium, ME and other minerals na maibabawas sa commercial feeds ko and di ko rin alam kung pano ito i-replace by adding available feedstuffs in our locality. What happened sa last thread?
Anyway hi mga kuyang i am into the last batch of disposal sa mga finishers ko na. While xmas and new year is coming nearer, mas tumataas ang sales ko which is good. Ill post it soon yung out come para may reference yung mga kuyang natin na baguhan at gusto mag start ng ganitong negosyo. Gaya ng paulit ulit na sinasabi ko before, salamat sa PCCARD at dito ako natututo ng lahat ng nalalaman ko as of this time though marami pa akong kulang at dapat malaman sa pag aalaga ng baboy. And of course, special mention to kuyang conrado and kuyang D. And of course, kay LORD at kay kuyang erick sa pag guide sakin on a daily basis. Sa lahat ng mga kuyang dito maraming salamat.
Merry xmas to all and have a blessed new year. More post to come soon. Fapper wrote: what happened sa last thread? Anyway hi mga kuyang i am into the last batch of disposal sa mga finishers ko na. While xmas and new year is coming nearer, mas tumataas ang sales ko which is good. Ill post it soon yung out come para may reference yung mga kuyang natin na baguhan at gusto mag start ng ganitong negosyo. Gaya ng paulit ulit na sinasabi ko before, salamat sa PCCARD at dito ako natututo ng lahat ng nalalaman ko as of this time though marami pa akong kulang at dapat malaman sa pag aalaga ng baboy.
And of course, special mention to kuyang conrado and kuyang D. And of course, kay LORD at kay kuyang erick sa pag guide sakin on a daily basis. Sa lahat ng mga kuyang dito maraming salamat. Merry xmas to all and have a blessed new year. More post to come soon. Sir Fapper, Musta na?
Sa nakita kong mga pics ng DBS piggery mo, ay nakakatiyak akong complete success yon dahil ginastusan mo talaga at pangmatagalan ang structure, patterned sa mga drawings ni Kuyang C. Ang you are in the right path, just like me, in solving the very low live weight price of the biaheros. I am sure that, that topic is a legitimate extension of the thread 'Our Baboyang Walang Amoy', na dapat ay pagusapan talaga sa thread, dahil pagkatapos natin na mapalaki ang mga baboy using the DBS system, ay talagang malaking problema kung malulugi lang tayo sa pagbenta ng mga baboy. Sir Fapper, we would appreciate if you can post here all the drawings of your DBS piggery setup because it is the counterpart of the drawings of our Kuyang C who prohibited me to post his drawings in this thread. I shall also post the pics of my DBS setup that I patterned from the You Tube P.I.G.S.
I modified the layout in that system to address someone's complaint that the dirty DBS materials might contaminate the feeds that the pigs are eating in the feeding troughs. The resulting modified DBS P.I.G.S. System came out to be a truly low cost pig housing system that is suited for members who have a low budget for their pig housing plans but equally effective din po. I shall also attempt to post the pics of the pigs shown in the 'Gabay Sa Kabuhayan', if I shall be able to recover them, to show the different kinds of pigs, that we are dealing with in the DBS system, for the benefit of the members. With your drawings/pics and those of mine, I think this thread can be jump started to discuss the two kinds of DBS system that can be expanded to feeds alternatives, the conventional gestating/farrowing pens/DBS farrowing pens, and effective marketing of our products. Merry Christmas po and Happy New Year to all.
Duckduck wrote: GABAY SA KABUHAYAN AND PICS OF PIGS: 1. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF THE SOURCE OF MATERIALS: 2.
TRIPLE CROSS FINISHERS: 3. TRIPLE CROSS PIGS; HYBRID PIGS: 4. SOW LINE AND BOAR LINE: 5. DOMINANT TRAITS AND RECESSIVE TRAITS: 6.
WHITE COLOR PIGS; COLORED PIGS: 7. BACK-CROSSING OF PIGS: 8. PHILIPPINE NATIVE PIG: Based on prior postings, this pic of the native Philippines pig is just to show the origin of our Philippine pig and not necessarily to be used in the breeding program of modern slaughter pigs, unless a breeder is engage of breeding pigs exclusively for lechon purposes who have exclusive markets for native pigs. BERKSHIRE BOAR: This pig got its name and originated from England, county of Berhshire and is known as Britain's oldest pig breed. According to internet information, this is a rare breed of pig originating from Berkshire, England. In the United States this pig was established by the American Berkshire Association.
The pig have large ears and are erect or slightly leaning forward. The legs are short and straight and have a straight underline belly as you can see from the picture. Berkshire pork is noted for its juiciness, good flavor, pink color meat and terdenness.
They are also called a 'small farm pig' noted for its ability to sow farm fields and live in free ranges. Please click on this link: 10. HAMPSHIRE BOAR: This is a domestic breed of pig that has erect eard and and a black body with whitish band around the shoulder of the body covering the front legs. This pig is said to have originated from Hampshire, England and later exported to the United States. They are noted for being well-muscled, big boned, grows rapidly and produce good meat. When used as breeding stock, the sows of this breed are good mothers and good tempered. LANDRACE SOW: Landrace, just like the LargeWhites have white skin and and don't have black hair in their bodies.
However, the Landrace are lop-eared pigs compared with the LargeWhites, with a long middle, light forequarters, and very good ham development. There were major faults observed with the Original Landrace such as weak legs, splay legs and nervous disorders.
This is probably why the modern breeders have to cross-breed them with the LargeWhites and other breeds. LARGEWHITE BOAR:The Large White pig is rugged and hardy, and can withstand a wide of climates. Its use is in crossbreeding or hybrid breeding programs with the most popular cross being is with the Landrace breed. This cross is ofter used as the maternal line in commercial breeding. A 3rd breed such as from a Duroc line is often used as a terminal sire. Market demands for low amounts of fat and high levels of lean meat made way to breeding programs such as the triple way by introducing the Duroc blood to a cross between the LargeWhite and the Landrace.
Largewhite sows were noted for their large litter size and heavy milk production, good mothering ability and strong legs and feet. These traits make them ideal for longer production results of the sows.
Large Whites have white skin and don't have black hair in their bodies. They are big boned and large-framed, having a long middle and light shoulders. Their legs are longer compared to other breeds and have long deep sides.
The head is moderately long with the face slightly dished, and the ears are pricked upwards. DUROC BOAR: Based on internet information that I found, in 1823, Isaac Frink of Milton in Saratoga County, New York, obtained from Harry Kelsey of Florida New York, a red boar, one of a litter of ten pigs. The sire and dam of these pigs were probably imported from England. Kelsey happened to own a famous trotting stallion named Duroc, so Mr. Frink named his red boar in honour of the horse. This boar was known for his smoothness and carcase quality.
Duroc's 'the pig' progeny continued the Duroc name and many of them inherited his colour, quick growth and maturity, deep body, broad ham and shoulder, and quiet disposition. Further breeding development of its progeny gave its offspring the tenacity and docility towards its young and made it an ideal candidate for an outdoor pig, either as a dam or sire, and its succulence and heavy muscling makes it very suitable for anything from light pork to heavy hog production. Further research funded by the MLC has investigated the Duroc’s claim to produce high levels of tenderness. This has led to a recommendation to include Duroc genetics as part of the meat quality Blueprint. DUROC BOAR#2: Please read the internet information about the Duroc Boar on no. PIETRAIN BOAR: Again based on internet information that I got, the breed is of medium size and has white with black spots.
Around the black spots there are characteristic rings of light pigmentation that carries white hair. The breed is commonly referred to as being of piebald markings.
The ears are erect. The Pietrain breed is renowned for its very high yield of lean meat but this is often associated with the presence of the halothane gene for Porcine Stress Syndrome. For this reason the use of purebred Pietrain in British pig production is relatively rare and it is most commonly found in crossbred and synthetic terminal sire lines. A small number of purebred herds are maintained to supply stock for breeding programmes. DUROC/PIETRAIN BOAR: As the name implies, this is the crossbreeding of a Pure Duroc boar to a Pure Pietrain sow or vice versa, between a Pure Pietrain boar to a Pure Duroc Sow. The result is a cross breed of Duroc/Pietrain or Pietrain/Duroc breed.
In a study of breeding these two breeds in Vietnam, the internet information stated that the result was as stated below: 'The average daily gain, feed conversion ratio and thickness of crossbred sires (Duroc/Pietrain and Pietrain/Duroc) were remarkably improved compared to purebred ones (PP and PD). The semen quality of these crossbred sires was much higher than that of purebred sires. When using these crossbred boars (DP and PD) as terminal sires for meat production, the average daily gain, feed conversion ratio and backfat thickness was improved significantly in fattening pigs during the period of 60 – 180 days old, and their lean meat was also increased by 1.71 – 3.37%. MEISHAN SOW FROM CHINA: This pic of the Meishan Sow from China, based on prior postings, has similar reasons as in the explanation in the Philippines Native Pig and should not be considered a basis for breeding our modern slauther pigs. Fapper wrote: what happened sa last thread?
Anyway hi mga kuyang i am into the last batch of disposal sa mga finishers ko na. While xmas and new year is coming nearer, mas tumataas ang sales ko which is good.
Ill post it soon yung out come para may reference yung mga kuyang natin na baguhan at gusto mag start ng ganitong negosyo. Gaya ng paulit ulit na sinasabi ko before, salamat sa PCCARD at dito ako natututo ng lahat ng nalalaman ko as of this time though marami pa akong kulang at dapat malaman sa pag aalaga ng baboy. And of course, special mention to kuyang conrado and kuyang D.
And of course, kay LORD at kay kuyang erick sa pag guide sakin on a daily basis. Sa lahat ng mga kuyang dito maraming salamat. Merry xmas to all and have a blessed new year. More post to come soon. Sir fapper, good day po, baguhan po ako dito, sir pwde ba makahingi ng pics ng dbs mo, plano ko din magstart ng piggery, if ok lang po, pakisend sa [email protected] thank you very much.
Fapper wrote: what happened sa last thread? Anyway hi mga kuyang i am into the last batch of disposal sa mga finishers ko na. While xmas and new year is coming nearer, mas tumataas ang sales ko which is good. Ill post it soon yung out come para may reference yung mga kuyang natin na baguhan at gusto mag start ng ganitong negosyo. Gaya ng paulit ulit na sinasabi ko before, salamat sa PCCARD at dito ako natututo ng lahat ng nalalaman ko as of this time though marami pa akong kulang at dapat malaman sa pag aalaga ng baboy.
And of course, special mention to kuyang conrado and kuyang D. And of course, kay LORD at kay kuyang erick sa pag guide sakin on a daily basis. Sa lahat ng mga kuyang dito maraming salamat.
Merry xmas to all and have a blessed new year. More post to come soon. Sir Fapper, Musta na? Sa nakita kong mga pics ng DBS piggery mo, ay nakakatiyak akong complete success yon dahil ginastusan mo talaga at pangmatagalan ang structure, patterned sa mga drawings ni Kuyang C.
Ang you are in the right path, just like me, in solving the very low live weight price of the biaheros. I am sure that, that topic is a legitimate extension of the thread 'Our Baboyang Walang Amoy', na dapat ay pagusapan talaga sa thread, dahil pagkatapos natin na mapalaki ang mga baboy using the DBS system, ay talagang malaking problema kung malulugi lang tayo sa pagbenta ng mga baboy. Sir Fapper, we would appreciate if you can post here all the drawings of your DBS piggery setup because it is the counterpart of the drawings of our Kuyang C who prohibited me to post his drawings in this thread. I shall also post the pics of my DBS setup that I patterned from the You Tube P.I.G.S. I modified the layout in that system to address someone's complaint that the dirty DBS materials might contaminate the feeds that the pigs are eating in the feeding troughs. The resulting modified DBS P.I.G.S.
System came out to be a truly low cost pig housing system that is suited for members who have a low budget for their pig housing plans but equally effective din po. I shall also attempt to post the pics of the pigs shown in the 'Gabay Sa Kabuhayan', if I shall be able to recover them, to show the different kinds of pigs, that we are dealing with in the DBS system, for the benefit of the members. With your drawings/pics and those of mine, I think this thread can be jump started to discuss the two kinds of DBS system that can be expanded to feeds alternatives, the conventional gestating/farrowing pens/DBS farrowing pens, and effective marketing of our products. Merry Christmas po and Happy New Year to all. Sir good day po, pwde ba makahingi ng pics about bds nyo, want to start my own din, kung okey po pwde send sa mail ko, [email protected] thank you very much. Utakpulvoron wrote: yeah, i gathered as much, but we will never truly know the nutritional values the commercial feedmakers use. So the best way to approach your issue, is by adding a balanced ration to the commercial feeds you are giving.
In which case para ka narin nagself mix sarili mong feeds. Mahirap rin kasi magformulate not knowing the nutritional value of fresh palm, and kung wala SBM or synthetic lysine mahirap mameet yung proper lysine balance. A good source of lysine that could be home made is germinated beans such as mongo or togue (raw mat for lumpia na togue). There are several reading materials available in the internet regarding germinated or sprouted mongo beans.
You can preserve the sprouted mongo beans by mixing it with molasses on 1:1 ratio, fermented togue. Wagner72 wrote: sir good day po, pwde ba makahingi ng pics about bds nyo, want to start my own din, kung okey po pwde send sa mail ko, [email protected] thank you very much. Sir wagner72, cencia na ngayon lang 12/23 ako nakabalik sa tirahan ko. Since 12/20 kasi ay sinugod ako ng ambulancia sa hospital dahil nagkaroon ako ng heart attack at ngayon lang ako nilabas. Anyway kinompleto ko lang ang descriptions ng bawat pic ng pigs na pinaguusapan natin sa thread na ito at sana ay magpost din ang ibang experienced members natin sa forum.
Anomang tulong galing sa mga kasama natin ay most appreciated po. I will proceed in posting pics and step by step procedures on how I converted my existing concrete structure into a modified DBS pig housing.
I would advise you, Sir Wagner, to always come back here to see more postings from our experienced friends so that you will learn more about the DBS setup. However, if you will only visit the thread of 'Tarlac Hog Raisers Forum' and magtiaga kang magbasa from start to finish, ay baka hindi na kelangan magbasa ka pa rito dahil kompleto na ang malalaman mo sa pagbababoyan sa thread na yon. When I say kompleto ay.as in KOMPLETO talaga. Kagaya ng ibang members ay duon din sa thread na yon ako nagkaroon ng idea na pasukin ang pagbababoyan. Mga kuyang.ok na po yung dbs ko for finisher at may laman na din po lima lang muna hehehe.ang laki nito ay 3x6M.maluwag na maluwag yung lima.ito po ang obserbasyon ko sa mga biik.nung una naming pinakawalan sa dbs tuwang tuwa sila at naglalaro sa ipa area, maliliksi sila at bwelo. Dbs na din yung farrowing pen kaya parang sanay na sila sa ipa. Pero po after mga 4 days parang ayaw na nilang pumunta sa ipa area nila kahit p nga may bagyong dumating at malamig ang panahon e dun pa din sila sa labangan nahihiga.ano po kaya ang problema nito.masyado po bang maiinit ang ipa para sa kanila?
Nung nakuha po namin yung ipa e maulan kaya may mga portion na talagang medyo basa na yung ipa nang ilagay namin sa pen, pero since ayaw na nila puntahan yung ipa area at unte-unti na ding natuyo. Nagsabit na nga po ako ng bunot ng niyog dun sa playground nila pra may mapaglaruan sila, yun saglot lang sila laro tapos sa labangan ulit matutulog kahit pa malamig ang panahon na dapat e lilipat sila sa ipa.wisik naman kami ng hugas bigas kada umaga.dapat po ba talagang soak wet yung ipa ng hugas bigas or dapat dinidilig ng tubig?
Isa pa pong obserbasyon na baka ikako kaya sa labangan nahihiga mga biik e dahil sa malamig ang simoy ng hanhin sa ipa area kaya nilagyan ko po kagad ng trapal yung dakong sinisimuyan ng malamig na hangin at pinalitan ko po ng bagong ipa yung ibabaw.pero ganun pa din ayaw nila mamalagi sa ipa gayung hindi naman ganuon kainit ang ipa.nagtate na po ang mga biik ko,nu po kaya mgandang gawin dito. Sana po mapaunlakan nyo ang ktanungan ko.more power ang GOD BLESS.MALIGAYANG PASKO DIN PO. Nhelmercs wrote: mga kuyang.ok na po yung dbs ko for finisher at may laman na din po lima lang muna hehehe.ang laki nito ay 3x6M.maluwag na maluwag yung lima.ito po ang obserbasyon ko sa mga biik.nung una naming pinakawalan sa dbs tuwang tuwa sila at naglalaro sa ipa area, maliliksi sila at bwelo. Dbs na din yung farrowing pen kaya parang sanay na sila sa ipa. Pero po after mga 4 days parang ayaw na nilang pumunta sa ipa area nila kahit p nga may bagyong dumating at malamig ang panahon e dun pa din sila sa labangan nahihiga.ano po kaya ang problema nito.masyado po bang maiinit ang ipa para sa kanila?
Nung nakuha po namin yung ipa e maulan kaya may mga portion na talagang medyo basa na yung ipa nang ilagay namin sa pen, pero since ayaw na nila puntahan yung ipa area at unte-unti na ding natuyo. Nagsabit na nga po ako ng bunot ng niyog dun sa playground nila pra may mapaglaruan sila, yun saglot lang sila laro tapos sa labangan ulit matutulog kahit pa malamig ang panahon na dapat e lilipat sila sa ipa.wisik naman kami ng hugas bigas kada umaga.dapat po ba talagang soak wet yung ipa ng hugas bigas or dapat dinidilig ng tubig? Isa pa pong obserbasyon na baka ikako kaya sa labangan nahihiga mga biik e dahil sa malamig ang simoy ng hanhin sa ipa area kaya nilagyan ko po kagad ng trapal yung dakong sinisimuyan ng malamig na hangin at pinalitan ko po ng bagong ipa yung ibabaw.pero ganun pa din ayaw nila mamalagi sa ipa gayung hindi naman ganuon kainit ang ipa.nagtate na po ang mga biik ko,nu po kaya mgandang gawin dito.
Sana po mapaunlakan nyo ang ktanungan ko.more power ang GOD BLESS.MALIGAYANG PASKO DIN PO. Sir nhelmercs, Kung hindi ako nagkakamali ay ito ang pic ng DBS mo, paki confirm lang po: Ito po ang mga napansin ko sa setup ng DBS mo: 1. Ang labangan (pakainan or feeding troughs) ay walang rebar dividers na 8' apart na dapat ay makapasok lang ang ulo ng biik para kumain. Dahil dito, pag oras ng pagkain ay nakakapasok ang buong katawan nila sa loob ng labangan at duon na pati sila tumatae, umiihi, nagpapahinga at magloblob. Ito marahil ang dahilan kaya sila nagtatae na dahil contaminated na ang feeding troughs ng kanilang tae at ihi. Kahit linisin mo ang loob ng labangan ay may mga bad bacteria na ang labangan na puedeng pagmulan ng sakit that your eyes can not see. Wala pa akong masyadong experience, pero palagay ko patingnan mo na sa vet ang mga biik mo bago lumala ang pagtatae nila.
Ang cement flooring sa harap ng labangan or feeding troughs (PAHINGAHAN) ay dapat ipantay mo sa hollow block edge ng pool, para pagnaglinis ay deretso agad sa loob ng pool area ang maruming tubig. Magtambak ka lang ng mga bato bato bago ka magbuhos sa cement flooring para manipis na lang ang concrete at menos ka sa gastos sa concrete mix. Ang pool ay dapat may butas sa gilid ng wall para duon lalabas ang mga maruming tubig tuwing maglilinis. Araw araw ang paglinis at dapat ang butas ay may pasak na pvc pipe sa labas na paitaas ang kadugtong para pag nakataas ay puede mong punuin ng tubig ang pool pero hindi tatagas sa open canal sa labas.
Pag ibinaba mo naman ang pvc pipe extension sa labas ay saka lang aawas ang tubig papunta sa open canal sa labas. Ang lahat ng maruming tubig na aawas sa open canal sa labas ay dapat deretso na sa septic tank na gagawin mo kadugtong ng open canal sa labas ng wall. Pag may nakita kang solid na mga tae sa DBS area (pahingahan at laruan), or sa loob ng pool or sa ibabaw ng concrete flooring (pahingahan), damputin mo ng dash pan at itapon sa labas sa compost pile para don mainitan at later ay maging fertilizer. In the meantime ay huwag ka na munang magpakain sa labangan.
Maglagay ka na lang muna ng conventional na pakainan sa concrete cement flooring para maiwasan ang contamination ng feeds. Ang conventional pakainan ay dapat may divider din para hindi sila makapasok sa loob. Hindi pa lang siguro sanay sa DBS area ang mga biik mo.
Besides, bukod sa DBS area ay meron pa silang 3 napupuntahan lugar na pahingahan, which were the labangan na may pagkain, concrete cement flooring na normal na pahingahan din ng mga biik, at ang pool na normal ding gusto nilang puntahan at paglaruan. Ang importante ay gamutin mo ang pagtatae nila para maging healthy sila. Paglaki nila ay masasanay din sila sa DBS area.
Hope this helps. I stand to be corrected po. Sir Wagner72, Ito po ang pics ng mga tanim na kinakain ng mga baboy: 1. Indigofera: 2.
Flemengia: 3. Madre de Agua: 5. Oil Palm tree seedlings: Marami na akong tanim na Madre de Agua sa farm ko at may pakinabang na rin sa merienda ng mga baboy. Meron na rin akong tanim na 100 Oil Palm Tree seedlings sa buong paligid ng farm ko and I expect them to start bearing fruits for the pigs 18 months from now.
I am arranging to buy 50 seedlings of nos. 1, 2 and 3 para itanim ko pa sa paligid ng farm. As usual I am always looking for alternative plants that can reduce my feed cost. Mga Kuyang, Ito ang design ng DBS farrowing pens ni Sir Eioz. So far ito ang pinaggayahan ng DBS farrowing pens ko, ni nhelmercs, at ni Sir Kenbats: Pic no. 2: Ito naman ang farrowing pens ko na ginaya ko sa design ni Sir Eioz, although hindi namin nakopya eksakto dahil hindi pa sanay magwelding ang farm worker ko: Ito naman ang farrowing pens ni Sir Kenbats, also patterned after Sir Eioz's design with some modifications. According to Kenneth, wala daw silang mortality sa design na ito.
Lalagyan daw nia ng steel railings ang paligid na bakod dahil mababa daw at nakakatalon na sa kabila ang mga biik. So far, Sir Kenbats and nhelmercs are attesting that this design of Eioz of the DBS farrowing pen were proven effective. To those who wants to fabricate an auto feeder, here are some pics that can help: 1.
My auto feeder in action. Sir Wintuha's welder fabricated this for me and I can have it duplicated anytime now. BTW, the 15-capacity P.I.G.S. Ay gumastos lang ako ng P22,000 by using mumurahin na materiales. The auto feeder assembled: 3. The auto feeder disassembled, from left to right.a) the inverted cone on top of the tire, b) the big cyclone tank or 'feed holder', c) the small round cylinder or 'feed outlet' with the G.I.
Pipe inside it. Note: Yong pong malaking tanke ay water tank at hindi po part ng auto feeder: 4. Big cyclone tank or 'feed holder' about 15” in diameter, with a cone shape G.I. Sheet welded at the bottom also. This is fixed on top of the 'cylinder/feed outlet' with paddle, which is the movable part: 5. The inverted cone G.I.Sheet gauge 16 welded to the tire rim that serves as the base of the cylinder for easy movement by the pigs.
Sa ibaba po ay ang tire or goma ng truck, to serve as the base of the tire rim where the inverted cone G.I. Sheet is to be welded to serve as the base of the cylinder/feed outlet. Note also that a 1” washer is welded on top of the inverted cone to serve as clearance of the bottom of the cylinder/feed outlet where the feed come out once the pig rotates or move upward the cylinder. The 1” washer can be a 'cut portion' of a G.I. Pipe and it can be made shorter or longer than 1” depending on the desired 'feed clearance': 6. The small round cylinder or 'feed outlet', that is 1 foot height and 7.5” in diameter with paddle made of corrugated bar 9mm diameter (“4” shape for easy movement or “ungkal” by the pigs): 7.
Front to rear. Pipe, b)Feed Outlet or big cyclone tank, and c) Feed Holder or small round cylinder.
Wagner72, ito na ang request mo. Dito ko na nilagay para makita din ng iba. Actually dito ko lang nakuha ang idea ng P.I.G.S.
Please click on the link. I just modified the layout inside at pinagitna ko ang pool sa feeding troughs to separate the feeding troughs from the DBS area.
Sa ganon, ay dadaan muna ang mga baboy sa pool bago makarating sa feeding troughs pag kakain na. Malilinis ang mga paa nila pagdaan sa pool at maiwasan ang contamination ng feeds. Posting pics of how I built my modified P.I.G.S. (Profitable Indigenous Growing System in You Tube) pig housing in my farm.
The 20-capacity P.I.G.S. Was completed on June 30, 2011 and we successfully raised 15 piglets to maturity in it without any problem. Total cost of the P.I.G.S. Ay P22K, which is suited for backyard farmers that have low budget.
The framings are made of bamboos that my farm workers harvested in the forest for free. Naglagay lang sila ng konting hollow block walls sa existing cement rik-rap ng garden plot at doon ibinaon ang mga bamboo posts: 2. Close-up ng bamboo framings: 3.
Nagkahugis na ang P.I.G.S. Nilagyan nila ng bubong agad para hindi sila naarawan pagtrabaho sa loob. Naghukay ng 1 meter lalim sa lupa: 5. Naglalagay ng bato bato bago magbuhos ng concrete mix para makatipid sa concrete mix.
Hindi naman kasi masyado mabigat ang mga baboy kaya kahit manipis lang ang concrete mix ay puede na: 6. Bago magbuhos ay nilagyan ng aggregate ang ibabaw ng mga bato bato. Mapapansin na naglagay na rin ng mga DBS materials sa hinukay na 1 meter lalim sa lupa. Iba ibang layers ng DBS materials and nilagay sa hukay: 7. Tapos na rin ang concrete floor area at magbubuhos na lang sa flooring ng pool: 8. Nabuhusan na ng concrete mix ang flooring ng pool: 9. Ng matapos na ang plumbing works ay ito na ang hitsura ng P.I.G.S.
Hindi pa nagawa ang open canal at septic tank sa labas: 10. Nilagyan ko ng 15 piglets ang P.I.G.S. Mapapansin na masaya silang naglalaro sa DBS area. Nagtatakbuhan dahil may tumatawag sa kanila para kumain na.: 11. Sa una ay gamit nila ang auto feeder: 12.
Pinakakain din namin sila ng mga dahon ng madre de agua, dahon ng malungay, dahon ng kamote, at mga root crops such as laman ng kamote: 13. Ng lumaki na sila ay masikip na ang auto feeder, kaya pinatangal ko na at sa concrete feeding troughs na sila kumakain. Konti na lang ang natitira sa kanila ngayon dahil ang 4 na babae ay pinili ng vet na gawing gilts at ang iba ay kinakatay namin at binibenta ng retail dahil napakababa ang live weight price.
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Sir Fapper and mga kuyang, Ilan ang nabenta ninyong baboy ng retail ngayong pasko? Kami ay nakapagkatay lang ng 2 baboy nitong nakaraang bisperas ng pasko. Pati 2 ulo merong bumili.
Malapit na rin kaming magkatay ng paisa isa para sa freezer sa farm dahil parami na ng parami ang bumibili ng frozen meat na mga kapitbahay namin. Pati mga kakilala sa bayan ay may bumibili na rin ng frozen meat. Magkakatay daw uli sila ng 2 baboy bisperas ng New Year. Kasalakuyang nagpapagawa ako ng maliliit na P.I.G.S., 10-capacity each at balak kong lagyan ng mga biik na iba iba ang edad para hindi na ako maubusan ng mga baboy na kakatayin ng paunti-unti.
Mukhang mas simple pa ang magalaga na lang ng mga finishing hogs. Here is the pic of 1 of 4 small 10-capacity P.I.G.S.
Ko still under construction. Meron akong 2 pang partitions na lupa pa ang flooring na kadugtong ng DBS farrowing pens ko.
Ang size ng 2 partitions ay 12 feet W x 39 feet L each, meron ng NIPA roofing, concrete posts and walls. Kaya pinalagyan ko na lang ng hollow block walls sa gitna ng bawat partitions sa pagitan ng concrete posts para maging 4 na small P.I.G.S.
10-capacity each. Posting pics of my DBS pig housing. Meron na akong existing structure with NIPA roofing, kaya I just modified it into a DBS pig housing patterned after the design of Kuyang C. Di hamak na low cost compared to Kuyang C's, pero sinunod ko naman ang major specs and I think mine is equally effective. Ang loob ng structure ay lupa kaya cenemento ko na lang at nilagyan ng feeding troughs and plumbing works. Ang loob ang pahingahan at pakainan sa mga baboy. Ang labas ang open DBS area at open na paliguan ng mga baboy.
Construction of the pool area: 3. Binuhusan na ang flooring ng pool: 4.
Hinuhukay na ang 1 meter lalim sa lupa para sa DBS area: 5. Naglatag ng mga bato bato at the bottom of the 1 meter lalim na hukay. Dahil nasa labas ang DBS area ay minabuti namin na ang pinakailalim at second layer ay designed as septic tank para mabilis ang seepage ng tubig mula sa ibabaw ng DBS area.
Second layer from the bottom ay pinatungan namin ng aggregate na binili namin mula sa mga kumukuha sa ilog. Tapos pinatungan namin ng mga dinurog na balat ng niyog. Marami sa amin nito at binibigay lang ng libre ng mga gumagawa ng copra. Kung wala sa lugar ninyo ay puedeng wala na rin nito. My mixer mixing the soil, sand and IPA. Then the soil and IPA only 9. After the layers of soil/sand/ipa and soil/IPA and at the very top the layer of IPA only.
Finished and ready to use except for minor plumber works. Nilagyan ko ng 2 gilts and I think they enjoy their outdoor DBS area and pool. Ang 2 gilts sa pic no. Ay nilipat ko na sa DBS farrowing pen sa kabila at itong conventional pen with open DBS area ay ginawa ko na lang community pen ng mga gilts at palakasan ng sow na bagong walay sa mga biik. Dito ko nilipat ang 4 na gilts na pinili ng vet para pagpractisan namin na gawing sow. Mapapansin na maluwag pa sila sa loob. Naglalandi na raw sila pero sabi ng vet ay wala pa sa edad, kaya sa Feb.
Or March pa scheduled ang AI nila: 13. Matapos kumain ay deretso sila sa labas para tumae at umihi duon sa sulok.
Tapos ay sa pool at open DBS area para magpahinga. Dalawa baboy pinakatay ko nuon dec 24 kuyang d. Yun nga lang madami natirang buto buto dahil ang trip ng mga mamimili pala pag christmas ay bbq at puro laman, porkchop at liempo ang gusto nila. Kaya eto puno ng butobuto ang ref namin. Hopefully ma dispose ko rin during the week before new year. Madami din nagkatay dito sa barangay namin nuon 24 (ang sabi sakin na matador ko 8 heads na baboy ang schedule nya that day including my two) pero madali lang ma dispose.
Hindi ko pa nasubukan mag frozen meat pero eto din ang balak ko balang araw. Pinag aaralan ko pa ang marketing sa pag katay. Mas gugustuhin ko sana mag benta ng liveweight pero kung papatol ako sa ganitong klase ng marketing at sa presyo ng mga biyahero ngayon, ang best possible scenario ay break even lang ako which is not good enough dahil ang tagal matutulog ang pera sa baboy. Atleast sa pakatay mababa na ang 1000 pesos na net profit kahit pa panget o bansot ang baboy pag pinakatay kikita parin ng konti.
Ingat lang po sa pautang ang piliin mabuti ang papautangin. Sir Ronski, Palagay ko unti unti ay madedevelop natin ang profitable marketing ng mga baboy natin. Si Sir Fapper, balita ko ay ganon na rin ang experience.profitable na rin.
I think if there is any requirements from the authorities later on, we can easily comply with them. We can always post here any experience we encountered.good or bad para makapagisip tayo ng solusyon for all members to benefit. So far sa mga pautang namin, nakolekta pa rin namin lahat. Kasi sa barangay lang namin kami nagbebenta sa ngayon at kilala namin sila lahat.
Isa pa ay kababata ko ang barangay captain namin kaya madali ng humingi ng tulong. Sianga pala, bago nabura yong original thread, ay pinaguusapan natin kung puede tayo mamili ng live weight na baboy at alagaan muna natin bago katayin. Palagay ko sa lugar ninyo ay marami ng may DBS kaya madali ka ng makapamili ng live weight basta taasan mo lang ng P5 or P10 per kilo compared sa buying price ng mga biahero. Pag kinatay mo ay malaki pa rin profit mo at wala ka pang hirap sa pagpalaki ng baboy. In our case na halos lahat ay conventional pens pa rin ang pig housing nila, ay halos pareho lang ang ibebenta namin sa mga binibenta ng lahat sa palengke. Alagan lang namin ng at least 2 weeks para masigurado na healthy at malinis ang mga baboy. Erik0930 wrote: Mga Kuyang, Nagkatay na din kami noong Dec 24, bale 2 baboy ang kinatay namin.naubos naman.
Merun pa sa bagong taon naman ung 2 merun pa natitirang 6, Maganda pa din magkatay kaysa ibenta ng liveweight, sa simula lang mahirap pero pag naka establish na ng customer eh maganda ang disposal. Need din ng freezer para sa mga left over para kahit anung oras pwede sila makabili. Pag sunday eh fresh ang karne kinabukasan hanggang sabado eh frozen na. Halos parepareho pala tayo ng experience nina Sir Ronski. Palagay ko ganon din si Sir Fapper.
Erik0930 wrote: Mga Kuyang, Nagkatay na din kami noong Dec 24, bale 2 baboy ang kinatay namin.naubos naman. Merun pa sa bagong taon naman ung 2 merun pa natitirang 6, Maganda pa din magkatay kaysa ibenta ng liveweight, sa simula lang mahirap pero pag naka establish na ng customer eh maganda ang disposal. Need din ng freezer para sa mga left over para kahit anung oras pwede sila makabili.
Pag sunday eh fresh ang karne kinabukasan hanggang sabado eh frozen na. Halos parepareho pala tayo ng experience nina Sir Ronski. Palagay ko ganon din si Sir Fapper. Sa Bulacan at Zambales ginagawa ko na ito at lagi namang nauubos bukod sa pautang, merun bili ng cash sa amin kc mas mura kaysa palengke. Mga Kuyang and Ateng, baka balak nyong gumamit ng bamboos sa low-cost P.I.G.S.
Ninyo ay makakatulong ito in bamboo preservation para maging matibay ang gagamiting bamboos. Methods of Preserving Bamboo Broad Grouping: 1. Non-chemical or traditional method; 2. Chemical method A.
Non-chemical method: 1. Soaking in running water - culms are submerged in running water as in a river or creek for two to three months, then air-dried. This reduces the starch content of the culms thus improving their resistance to powder post beetles but not to termites or fungi.
Smoking - culms are cut into desired lengths and placed above the kitchen stove until they turn sooty black. The exposure to heat and smoke protects the culms against bio-deterioration. Whitewashing - round or split bamboo is painted with cooked lime to prevent the entry of moisture which favors fungal growth 4. Mud coating - the bamboo culms are coated with mud to prevent beetle harborage. Common Chemical Method: 1. Non-pressure methods a. Spraying or brushing - Spray or brush the chemical solution on the bamboo culms.
This prophylactic treatment has a temporary effect because the penetration of preservatives is very shallow. Soaking - used in treating small pieces of bamboos. Completely submerge the culms pieces in the chemical solution. Halved drum joined end to end or ground pits lined with plastic sheets may be used as treating troughs. Sap replacement -Let freshly cut culms with branches and leaves still intact, stand in a container with 5 to 10 liters of preservative solution.
Through cell respiration and leaf transpiration, the solution is drawn up the stem. Pressure Method - Dry poles are placed inside a cylinder and the preservative is forced through pressure application. FPRDI has developed a system for chemically treating freshly cut bamboo poles by pressure method using High Pressure Sap Displacement (HPSD) treating equipment Preservative Chemicals: The common chemicals for protecting bamboo culms are Cislin, Fermay Plus, Timbor and CCA Cislin -is a synthetic pyrethroid insecticide which is non-staining, can be easily diluted with water and biodegradable. Recommended for treating bamboo against boring insects at 0.01% level. Recommmended Cislin Treatment Solution: Mix 4 milliliters Cislin with 1 liter of water Farmay Plus- this is broad spectrum fungicide which is effective against molds, staining and decay fungi. Comparable with such insecticides as Cislin and Timbor The recommnded concentration is 0.2% Recommended Farmay Plus treatment solution considers the athmospheric condition during the rainy season, mix 1 part Farmay Plus with 5 parts water.
During the dry season, mix 1 part Farmay Plus with 200 parts water Timbor - This colorless preservative has disodium octaborate tetrahydrate as active ingredient. It is effective against bamboo boring insects at 10% level Timbor is suited for treating bamboo that will be used only indoors because the chemical leaches out when exposed outdoors. Recommended Timbor treatment solution: Dissolve 1 part Timbor in 10 parts water CCA - Chromated Copper Arsenate - comes in paste form. It is water-borne effective against bamboo boring insects and fungal decay at 5% CCA is comparatively cheaper than the other chemicals but leaves a green coloring on the treated material. It should be used for furniture or craft products only when green coloring is desired or if these will be stained.
Recommended CCA treatment solution: Dissolve 1.0 kg of CCA in 20 liters of water. Treatment Procedure: Cislin and Timbor are insecticides only. To make the treatment solution effective against both insects and fungi, add the recommended concentration of Farmay Plus to either Cislin or Timbor. Boric acid is also a fungicide which can be mixed with Timbor in a 1:1 proportion. Soak the materials to be protected in the prepared Cislin and Farmay Plus solution for 5 minutes. Brush or spray the solution on the materials.
Or, soak the materials in the prepared Timbor-Farmay Plus or Timbor-boric acid solution for 2 hours. Allow to dry in slanting position on supports so bottom ends do not touch the ground. Or, soak the materials in the prepared CCA solution.
The length of soaking time depends on the condition to which the materials will be exposed, namely: Condition of use Soaking Period Indoor 3 days outdoor not in contact with ground 5 days Outdoor in contact with ground 7 days In water/wet 10 days Source: Bamboo Processing Training Manual, Forest Products Research and Development Institute (FPRDI), College Laguna, July 1999. Bamboo Seasoning Bamboo should be dried to the moisture level of the surroundings to remain stable and free of the drying-related defects. Well seasoned bamboo has a number of advantages that include improved strength properties and less likelihood of damaging fungi and insect attack.
Seasoning can be done through natural or artificial means: natural, by air drying; artificial, under controlled conditions or kiln drying. Information on bamboo treatment with Borax and Boric Acid (Shared by Dr. Eric Cleuren) Borax and boric acid are widely recognized as relatively cheap, efficient and less harmful chemicals for treating bamboo (they are not completely harmless and therefore contact with the skin should be avoided during the treatment process). The extra advantage is that it has a fire-retardant effect on the treated bamboo. METHOD: The most widely used formula is a proportion of 1:1 in a 2% to 5% solution Use dry bamboo and submerge it in 1 kg borax + 1 kg boric acid + 50 l of water. You can also dilute it more (100 l of water) or less (25 l) according to the kind of product and its use, but 50 l is a good average.
Both products dilute much better in warm water, so start with a small amount of warm water before adding it to the large bath) Keep the bamboo submerged at least during 24 hours and 48 hours if possible. Dry the bamboo afterwards protected from direct sun light, horizontally (because vertical may enhance the drying process and cause cracks) The solutions can be used several times, but that depends on the starch content of your bamboo. How to know that the solution can be used for another time? Apply Litmus paper before and after the submersion and when the Ph level has changed drastically, it is time to replace the solution. The prices in the Philippines: 1 kg borax: 40 pesos 1 kg boric acid: 70 pesos. Other pointers in bamboo preservation: Preservation of Bamboo in Service: By Walter Liese (Chair for Wood Biology, Hamburg University, Germany) Abstract: Bamboo culms are an excellent material for countless applications.
Their wider use for construction is encouraged by the growing scarcity of timber. Since bamboo has a low natural resistance, protection against biological degradation is of vital importance for long term service. Protective measures without chemicals are preferable, but often limited in their effectiveness. When using preservatives, the restricted permeability of culm tissue, choice of preservative and treatment method and environmental effects as well as economical aspects have to be considered. Keywords: Bamboo, deterioration, permeability, protection, preservation, preservatives, treatment techniques, environment, economics According to the constitution of the Academy, the phrase 'wood science' covers 'lignified natural materials' of which bamboo is an important component. The Academy Lecture given at the IUFRO World Congress 1986 in Ljubijana deait with 'Research on Bamboo'.
On this occasion I want to be more specific with the 'Protection of Bamboo in Service'. There is no other country in the worid, in which bamboo plays such a major role as a multi-purpose commodity as in China, with a total area of about 4. Ha bamboo forest, a production of 2. Tons shoots, 12 mill. Tons of culms, partly converted in about 200 mills into over 1 millon m3 panels of various products. The China bamboo industry contributes about 2.
2 billion USD annually to its economy, and goods for 400 mill. USD are exported. 6 million people are working with bamboo, of which 4. 5 in the forest and 1. 1 million in factories.
Therefore bamboo has to be on the agenda of this conference with at least one paper. Bamboo in Service: Among the many uses, bamboo is an important construction material, such as scaffolding, bridges, shelters, towers and for simple and modern engineered structures. Bamboo houses provide homes for a billion people, not only in rural areas, where it is considered as a cheap, replaceable material. Its wider use as a substitute for wood is supported by the increasing scarcity and expense of timber in several bamboo producing countries. Its wider acceptances however is often hindered due to problems with biological degradation of the raw material, construction components as well as finished products.
Gemini tv serial mogali rekulu. A wide range of protective procedures, including chemical preservation methods are known, but not regularly applied. The reasons are lack of knowledge about possibilities for bamboo protection, lack of adequate treatment facilities and chemical preservatives, uncertainty about its economics and lack of demand for treated bamboo components. Protection of this versatile material, especially in areas where longer service life is desired, can result in immense social and economical benefits.
An increase in bamboo availability would facilitate employment potential, save processing and labor costs, which would otherwise occur due to frequent replacement of degraded bamboo components. In the following only a brief overview about some facts and problems can be presented. Details are given in the 'Bamboo Preservation Compendium' by W. Kumar, presently as INBAR Technical Report 22 in print. Natural durability: For its utilization bamboo has a few serious obstacles, mainly its low durability against biodegradation and its low penetrability for preservatives. Bamboo culms do not produce any toxic substances during their lifetime, unlike the heartwood of many trees. In contrast to timber, a bamboo culm consists of about 40% parenchyma cells which are filled with nutritious starch, even in older culms.
Only in flowering bamboo, the starch is used up for the seed production. Much belief exists that the cutting around the full moon phase may result in an increased resistance.
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This is also said for timber but detailed investigations have been unable to substantiate these claims. Starch affects the susceptibility against borers and blue-stain fungi, so that harvesting during or after the rainy season, when starch content is lowest, reduces incipient attack during storage.
The common water-storage of fresh culms has a similar effect, since the starch is degraded, mainly by bac.
While fairly new, the practice of natural hog raising or “Babuyang Walang Amoy” in the Philippines, has increased steadfastly through the years. More and more Filipinos, both experienced farmers and those new to farming, have begun to adopt this technology of growing healthy pigs. Many new farmers have built their own backyard “Babuyang Walang Amoy” using indigenous and even recyclable materials available in their surroundings. And many current backyard raisers have also opted to convert their existing conventional pens into this more economical and sustainable technology. There is more to the “Babuyang Walang Amoy” (literally “piggery with no smell”) technology than being just odor-free. While its most distinct feature is being free from bad odor that is present in most conventional piggeries, its most important feature is that it mimics the natural habitat of pigs, which allows for stress-free pigs that are less prone to sickness and diseases. This technology is easier, cleaner, and more cost-effective for farmers, it reduces antibiotic dependency in pigs, it is environment and community-friendly, and it promotes humane animal treatment.
Coupled with natural, antibiotic-free, fermentable feeds, the “Babuyang Walang Amoy” system produces meat that is natural, healthy, and safe for human consumption. Farmers are also able to further capitalize on this technology by going into other related ventures like organic farming, vermiculture, organic fertilizer production, pond aquaculture, and many more.
Using the “Babuyang Walang Amoy” technology, pigs are able to roam around freely within the pen on a soft bedding of organic materials – such as rice hulls, they are free to cool themselves off in a shallow wallowing pond, and they are able to exercise their natural behaviors like burrowing. BABUYANG WALANG AMOY CONSTRUCTION Location Before starting construction of a “Babuyang Walang Amoy” several factors have to be considered. The “Babuyang Walang Amoy” should be located in a place with ample sunlight penetration as sunlight is a natural disinfectant and also provides vitamin D for the animals. It is also important to note that the location must also allow for ample wind to flow through the piggery. A cool environment helps foster more stress-free pigs. Make sure to avoid lowlands where flood incidence is high during rainy seasons.
The earth flooring below the natural piggery must be at the highest possible level in case of flood. And to make it easier, choose a location that is accessible to main roads. It will be easier to transport feeds to the piggery as well as transport harvested pigs from the piggery to be marketed. Space Requirements The basic parts of a “Babuyang Walang Amoy” are the bedding, wallowing pond, and feeding trough. It is recommended to allocate about 1.5 to 2 square meters per pig for the bedding. The wallowing pond should be about 1 meter wide spanning the length of one side of the pen.
The feeding trough is usually placed opposite the wallowing pond. The feeding trough is only about 10 inches wide – wide enough for the pig to eat from and narrow enough to prevent the pigs from sleeping on the trough. In a typical “Babuyang Walang Amoy” with ten pigs, the dimensions of the pen are usually 4m x 5m for the bedding and 1m x 4m/5m for the pond for a total area of up to 25 square meters. Materials Needed Farmers can use whatever materials they have readily available in their areas. It is important that the materials used to construct the piggery are sturdy enough to withstand the elements and strong enough to hold the pigs inside the pen. Typical “Babuyang Walang Amoy” use a combination of concrete and bamboo or wood, and nipa, anahaw, or G.I.
Sheet for the roof. Other materials that may be available can also be used as long as they do not potentially hurt or stress the pigs. The roof may either be shed type, semi-monitor, or monitor type.
When deciding which roof to make, it is important to make sure that the piggery allows for ample wind to circulate. Larger piggeries will benefit from semi-monitor or monitor type roofs that have openings at the top. Bedding It is recommended to use rice hull or other high lignin or organic materials as bedding. Some farmers have used wood chips, coffee shells, shredded corn cobs, saw dust, coco dust, and others. The bedding must be 2 to 3 feet deep and is placed above the soil/ground level. There is no concrete flooring below the rice hull bedding. Wallowing Pond The wallowing pond should be about 1 meter wide spanning the length of one side of the pen.
It is shallow and should be able to hold only up to 6 inches deep water. The pigs use the pond to cool off. They also usually defecate/urinate in one area of the pond. Feeding Trough The feeding trough is located opposite and/or perpendicular the wallowing pond. It may also span the entire length of the piggery or at least long enough to accommodate all the pigs. The feeding trough is curved/half-circle inside and is about 8 inches wide and 6 inches tall inside. Automatic Drinkers It is ideal to have automatic drinkers installed on the wall on the wallowing pond side of the pen.
Any excess water will fall into the wallowing pond when the pig is drinking. There must be 1 drinker for every 3 pigs. It is recommended that the height of the drinker be adjustable. The drinker must be low enough for piglets to reach and must be adjusted higher as the piglets grow taller. BABUYANG WALANG AMOY MANAGEMENT Maintaining the “Babuyang Walang Amoy” properly and timely not only ensures an odor-free and clean piggery but also assures stress-free pigs. Waste must be collected every now and then by sweeping it out from the pond or scooping it out the bedding. The waste can be set aside and used as fertilizer for plants.
The bedding depth must also be maintained. From time to time the bedding sinks (due to the weight of the pigs) or gets wet, so it is important to add fresh bedding. After harvest, it is recommended to change all the bedding and replace to new bedding before new piglets are stocked. The wallowing pond must be filled with up to 6 inches deep water every morning and must be drained and cleaned every afternoon.
It is not advisable to leave water there overnight because the temperature of piggery area may become too cool for the pigs. FEEDING It is also important that the pigs are fed organic feed or natural feed, such as Feedpro, that contain no harmful antibiotics or harmful growth hormones. Some growers have experienced shortcomings when growing their pigs (e.g. Piggery has bad odor, growth targets are not achieved) because they use non-natural feeds. Feedpro follows the typical feeding program or feeding schedule of conventional feeds.
It can be fed to pigs dry (which is the conventional way of feeding), wet, or fermented. To ferment feeds, Feedpro is soaked in water (1 kilo of feeds to 3 liters of water) for up to 12 hours.
The fermented feeds are then given to the pigs in its liquid form. Fermentation is recommended because it further stimulates the Probiotics in the feeds before they even reach the gut. Please note only Feedpro feeds from starter to finisher are allowed to be fermented.
PROBIOTICS Feedpro natural feed contain select strains of Probiotics – live yeast, lactic acid bacteria, and organic acids – that all work together to improve the pigs’ gut health. In turn, it improves their digestion thereby allowing their bodies to optimally absorb the nutrients in the feeds. The Probiotics or good bacteria work by outnumbering the number of pathogens or harmful bacteria in the digestive tract and competing with these harmful bacteria for their food source.
Because of these healthy Probiotics, pigs are able to achieve the same growth rates or even better growth rates than conventional feeds that use antibiotics and medications.
Page 1 of 2 PIGS - Profitable Innovative Growing System. The PIGS method to grow pigs was developed by PRO Natural Feed Corporation, a commercial feed producer (brand FeedPRO). There is a slant therefore to promote their products. Having disclosed this, there is prudence in their guidelines with respect to observe ecosystems principles in growing pigs. For example, the refrain from using antibiotics in their hog production. How To Set Up P.I.G.S. Babuyang Walang Amoy (Updated). In brief:.
Indigenous materials - use available materials to reduce cost. East-West orientation of the major dies - provides sunlight (Vitamin D). Air circulation - do not block sidings with high walls that will prevent free flow of air. Wading area - One (1) meter width.
Controlled water level depending on the age of the animal. Clean thoroughly and regularly; when conditioned, the pigs will use the area not only to clean themselves but may also defecate and urinate in this area; thus, it must be cleaned everyday. View the wastewater treatment proposed in the updated video. Rice hull bedding - use up to two (2) feet of rice hull.
Keep for the whole growing season. Remove any animal waste in this area. Add more rice hull as needed. Natural Feeds - organic sources, no antibiotics added, no animal source additives.
Feed fermentation - increases the digestibility of the feed mixture. Fixed (narrow) dimension of the feeding trough - this will condition the pigs not to use this area except for feeding. Integrated food production The dimensions of the housing compartments were slightly larger compared with earlier versions of this series. The guidelines create a pig housing that considers the nature of pigs, e.g., their nature to dig the soil, wallow in a wading pond to clean up keep cool, etc. The construction features suggested include the construction of a wallowing pond and the restriction of the feed and drinking water troughs.
This version includes also a wastewater treament (filtration) system to process the water coming from the wading area of the pig pens. The wastewater treatment system is similar to the BioSand system, except activated carbon is added as a layer in the treatment process. In part this is due to the high organic content of the waste.
On June 22, 2011, PCARRD and PCAMRD was consolidated and is now known as the Philippine Council for Agriculture, Aquatic, and Natural Resources Research and Development or PCAARRD. WELCOME! This forum is venue for the dynamic exchange of knowledge and experience among experts, farmers, and industry practitioners in the agriculture, aquatic and natural resources (AANR) sectors.
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Mga Kuyang, Marami pong salamat sa mga kaibigan natin na walang sawang tumangkilik at nagbigay ng kanilang kaalaman sa pagbababoyan. As of August 16, 2013 po, ang Swine Section na ang may pinakamaraming Postings and Topics sa PCAARRD Forum. Sa Swine Section naman po ay ang thread na 'Modified P.I.G.S., Baboyang Walang Amoy, Feed and Marketing Solutions' ang may pinakamaraming 'Viewings' and 'Replies'. Again, marami pong salamat sa mga experienced members na walang sawang tumutulong sa mga baguhan na tulad namin sa larangan ng pagbababoyan.
Baboyang Walang Amoy Technology
Kuyang D, Sa akin basta ang generic term nyan ay DBS. DBS growing pen at DBS farrowing pen:-) Kung intindihin natin ang main objective ng DBS ay para sa waste management.
Ba't pa tau magDBS kung gagawa pa rin ng septic tank or conditioning pit? Ang conditioning pit ng P.I.G.S. Ang nagpacomplicate ng DBS system. Kung hindi nila doon pinapadumi ang baboy sa pool ay hindi rin sila gagawa ng 'conditioning pit'. Pero to answer the 1 million dollar question, 'ba't pa nga magDBS kung may septic tank?' Kaya sa tingin ko ginawa nila ang 'conditioning pit'.
Di ba maganda pakinggan ma-recycle mo ang tubig galing sa baboyan. NO against po ako sa any brand ng feeds pag-isipan nyo lang muna ang systema kung suit sa preference nyo.
Ika nga hindi template at walang perfect na system sa pagbababoy:-). Joprans wrote: Plano ko e build next time yung tank after ko gawa ulit nang 16 head capacity na PIGS. May location na ako kung saan ko ilalagay. Picturan ko nalang if masimulan yung construction pero sabi ko nga maliit lang yung baboyan ko so mag mamatter pa dun kung praktikal bang maglagay nang tanke ngayung paconvert na ako sa PIGS system.
Once a day lang hugas pool so bababa talaga yung water waste. Sa pinaplano ko magsisilbing UV treatment yung sunlight kac open yung mga tanke. Parang biofilter talaga gagawin ko di ko alam kung san ko nakuha yung idea basta patungkol din yun using nature do its job hehehehe. Baka lagyan ko pa nang ornamental plants yung 2nd tanke para cute.=) Sir Jopran, Ang P.I.G.S. Ay concept ng feedspro na doon sa pool magpupu at magwewe ang baboy. Ito ay iba sa ibang DBS set-up na doon mismo sa bedding ini-encourage magdumi ang mga baboy. Alin po ang sa inyo nyan?
Salamat in advance sa pics ng project mo na inaabangan namin;-) Kuyang combination dun sa nabangit mo para d malito ang mga baboy kung saan cla tatae. Sabi ko sa kanila tae lang kayu wer ever u want plano ko ngang turuan panu mag libing nang popo. Yung popo na nasa dbs ay nililibing ko lang din dun tas spray ko is IMO2 twice a week. D pa kac ako gumagawa nang OHN. Yung wiwi lang cgurado ako sa pool cla nag wiwi.Kaya ko kinombine yung 2 is for IPA usage to be maximize and din yung good bacteria production.
Sabihin nating matatagalan tayu sa pag papaproduce nitong good bacteria no need to wory pang matagalan naman din itong ginagawa natin pasasaan ba din papunta to kundi dun din. Yung pool din kac maganda sa mata at mapuputi/malinis ang mga baboy may harmony sa paligid d masakit sa mata no yaki felling na popo ba yang nakabalot sa kanila yaks! Kung ikaw mismo ang may-ari nun pede ka mag dala ang folding bed ipasok mo sa baboyan mo tas dun ka matulog haploshaplosin mo din mga baboy mo =P. D naman kac pure business minded ako kaya d masyadong strikto. Sana nga matuloy yung septic filter ko. Kenbats wrote: Tony, Hindi ko na kasi pinoproblema ang heat stress sa mga grower kasi i-dispose ko nman sila afte 4 months:-) kung mainit ang panahon hindi naman ganun naapektohan ang mga baboy dahil may air vent ang mga bubong namin. At isa pa dahil naka-autofeeder kami kung kulang sila ng kain sa araw dahil nga sa mainit na panahon sa gabi nman sila bumabawi:-) kaya minsan naaabotan ko tuwing gabi na kumakain kahit wlang ilaw hehehehe @Joprans, Binalikan ko ang page 1 nitong thread based sa binangit mong guide sa paggawa ng auto feeders.
I realized na ang contents ng page 1 ay napakarami na palang info para sa mga beginners ang laman. Pag natapos na ang auto feeder mo, puede bang paki-post naman dito para mapakinabangan namin?
Salamat in advance, bro. Nasa phone lang po yung mga pics problema ko d ko ma upload hanap na muna paraan para dito. Kenbats wrote: Kuyang D, 1. Sa akin basta ang generic term nyan ay DBS.
DBS growing pen at DBS farrowing pen:-) Answer: As I've said sa akin P.I.G.S. Pa rin which means Modified P.I.G.S. And also DBS Farrowing Pen.
Kung ano ang gustong itawag ng iba ay ok na ok rin, dahil yon ang gusto nila. Kung intindihin natin ang main objective ng DBS ay para sa waste management.
Ba't pa tau magDBS kung gagawa pa rin ng septic tank or conditioning pit? Answer: Nag DBS nga ako, pero wet feeding sa labangan. Pagnaghugas sa labangan, saan pupunta? Di sa labas ng pig pen sa open canal papunta sa maliit na septic tank. Actually I don't mind kung anong tawag sa pig pen ko. But I do mind kung magpuputik sa labas ang pinaghugasan sa labangan.
Kaya kami naghuhugas ng labangan dahil ayay namin na may panis na feed sa labangan bago maglagay ng bagong fermented feed. Magkaiba kasi tayo ng feeding system.
Baboyang Walang Amoy Youtube
Ikaw dry feeding at kami naman ay wet feeding. Ang conditioning pit ng P.I.G.S. Ang nagpacomplicate ng DBS system. Kung hindi nila doon pinapadumi ang baboy sa pool ay hindi rin sila gagawa ng 'conditioning pit'.
Pero to answer the 1 million dollar question, 'ba't pa nga magDBS kung may septic tank?' Kaya sa tingin ko ginawa nila ang 'conditioning pit'. Di ba maganda pakinggan ma-recycle mo ang tubig galing sa baboyan. NO against po ako sa any brand ng feeds pag-isipan nyo lang muna ang systema kung suit sa preference nyo. Ika nga hindi template at walang perfect na system sa pagbababoy:-) Answer: Palagay ko I already gave my answer to the million dollar question in the second paragraph. Sayo puede walang septic tank dahil dry feeding ka.
Pero sa amin ay wet feeding at kelangan hugasan ang labangan (iwas panis na naiwan) bago magbigay uli ng fermented feed. I also agree na hindi template at walang perfect na system sa pagbababoy. Depende ito sa gusto ng may-ari at kung ano ang convenient para sa kanila. Halimbawa, kung ako ay dry feeding system, siempre hindi ko na rin kelangan ang canal sa labas at septic tank.
Joprans wrote: Kuyang combination dun sa nabangit mo para d malito ang mga baboy kung saan cla tatae. Sabi ko sa kanila tae lang kayu wer ever u want plano ko ngang turuan panu mag libing nang popo. Yung popo na nasa dbs ay nililibing ko lang din dun tas spray ko is IMO2 twice a week.
D pa kac ako gumagawa nang OHN. Yung wiwi lang cgurado ako sa pool cla nag wiwi.Kaya ko kinombine yung 2 is for IPA usage to be maximize and din yung good bacteria production. Sabihin nating matatagalan tayu sa pag papaproduce nitong good bacteria no need to wory pang matagalan naman din itong ginagawa natin pasasaan ba din papunta to kundi dun din. Yung pool din kac maganda sa mata at mapuputi/malinis ang mga baboy may harmony sa paligid d masakit sa mata no yaki felling na popo ba yang nakabalot sa kanila yaks!
Kung ikaw mismo ang may-ari nun pede ka mag dala ang folding bed ipasok mo sa baboyan mo tas dun ka matulog haploshaplosin mo din mga baboy mo =P. D naman kac pure business minded ako kaya d masyadong strikto. Sana nga matuloy yung septic filter ko.
Sir Joprans, Asahan namin ang posting nyo sa project na yan:-) Isa sa dahilan na tinanggal namin ang pool kasi marumi sa baboy dikit2x ang ipa sa katawan at pagpunta nila doon sa concrete flooring andoon nakakalat ang ipa. Anyway, interesado ako sa gagawin mong project. May option ka nman gawing biogas kung hindi gagana katulad kay Sir Eioz:-). Kenbats wrote: Tony, Tama dry feeding kami dahil matrabaho ang wet feeding at lalong hindi ko siya 'ngayon' gusto dahil kailangan ng septic tank. Hehehehe Kenneth, Dati dry feeding din kami sa Pigrolac.
Pero dahil sa marami na kaming at kaya na ng mga tanim namin na magmix kami ng organic feed, ay malaki ang natitipid namin sa feed cost sa wet feeding and I think it is worth the effort na gumamit ng power blaster sa paglinis ng labangan na napakabilis naman gawin. Lalo na ngayon dumadami ang klase ng concentrated juice namin at unti unti nababawasan naman ang commercial feeds. Kanya-kanya tayo ng sestema at gusto. Sayo di bale 100% commercial feeds lahat sa dry feeding dahil may meatshop ka naman.
Pero kami ay walang meatshop kaya patuloy kaming maghanap ng paraan bumaba ang feed cost. I think may posibilidad na gumana ang Aquaponics system sa piggery setup. Kailangan lang siguro ng major modifications. Come think of it.
Yung wastewater galing sa pens dadaan sa settling tanks para sa pagfilter ng large solids. Yung malalaking solids pwede nating gamitin sa vermicompost. Then yung more liquid na slurry diretso na sa digester para gawin biogas. Then yung overflow na effluent padaanin natin sa gravel filter para biofiltration bago natin gamitin na growth medium yung water for the hydroponics garden. Pwede tayong magpatubo ng vegetables or pwede din forage species like azolla, duckweed at iba.
Yung resulting treated water is I think pwede na natin i-pump pabalik sa piggery or other use like for watering plants using a pump powered by a biogas operated generator. Mas sustainable ang system na ito kung mag-succeed. Available at proven na yung mga component ng system kaya posible na mag-succeed ang concept. Ano sa tingin mo kenbats? Kenneth, Wala naman akong sinabing you are pointing me in the wrong direction. Pareho tayo noon, but we have change our feeding system from 100% commercial feeds with fresh green leaves merienda to mixed organic feed with fresh green leaves merienda. I am not suggesting that you also change your feeding system.
Hindi na kasi pareho ang situation natin ngayon. BTW, ang pagbigay ng fresh leaves sa mga baboy ay merienda lang nila yan, not as main feeding per Sir Andry Lim.
As far as I understand him, unless otherwise told, ang feed mixing ay sa mga concentrated concoctions, plus D1 plus commercial feeds. Ang savings ay sa mga concentrated concoctions that mostly are from home grown plants, low cost of fish/baloko, molasses and less cost of D1. For safety on the nutrients, meron pa rin commercial feeds. DylaNuR wrote: 'Swineponics'. I think may posibilidad na gumana ang Aquaponics system sa piggery setup. Kailangan lang siguro ng major modifications.
Come think of it. Yung wastewater galing sa pens dadaan sa settling tanks para sa pagfilter ng large solids. Yung malalaking solids pwede nating gamitin sa vermicompost. Then yung more liquid na slurry diretso na sa digester para gawin biogas. Then yung overflow na effluent padaanin natin sa gravel filter para biofiltration bago natin gamitin na growth medium yung water for the hydroponics garden.
Pwede tayong magpatubo ng vegetables or pwede din forage species like azolla, duckweed at iba. Yung resulting treated water is I think pwede na natin i-pump pabalik sa piggery or other use like for watering plants using a pump powered by a biogas operated generator. Mas sustainable ang system na ito kung mag-succeed. Available at proven na yung mga component ng system kaya posible na mag-succeed ang concept. Ano sa tingin mo kenbats? Dylan, Sana nga ay mag succeed. Malaking investment din siguro ang iba ibang components.
Pag ang isang component sa unahan ay hindi gumana, apektado ang ibang components. Sana ay meron galanteng maginvest sa ganito at pag nagsucceed ay paki post lang dito para ma-emulate namin kung feasible talaga. Joprans wrote: By the way tawag ko dito is DB-PIGS. Deep bedding profitable indigenous growing System. Jprans, Hala ka. Pag kinompleto mo ang literal na meaning ng DB-PIGS, baka mapodpod din ang daliri mo sa pagtype nian. Hehehehe.bakit kailangan isingit ang P.I.G.S., generally speaking DBS lahat yan.
3 letters lan yan example. If originally ang tawag mo sa isang tinapay ay simpleng tinapay.
Nilgayan mo ng burger putty, mayonaise etc.tinawag mo ng burger. Tapos meron isa bata n alam n burger ang tawag doon.ngayon pinatangal nya ang burger putty, mayoinase etc. Dapat bang tawagan natin itong 'modified burger' or just simpleng tinapay n lan? Same with dbs.dinagdagan ng pool, filter tank etc.then tinawag na natin P.I.G.S. Iyong P.I.G.S ay inalis ang pool, filter tank etc., dapat bang tawagin modified p.i.g.s or simply DBS?
Iniiwasan lan natin ang confusions lalot maraming baguhan ang hindi alam how this DBS evolved. Tama po tayo pede nating itawag kung ano ang gusto natin.pero isipin nyo n lan. If kung may anak kang babae n pangalan ay tonirose tapos binigyan mo ng palayaw n tony.kung ang magbabasa ay hindi kilala kau or anak nyo ang iisipin lalaki ito. So much for this.magkakaibigan nman tayo d2 hehehhehehehe. Joprans wrote: By the way tawag ko dito is DB-PIGS.
Deep bedding profitable indigenous growing System. Jprans, Hala ka. Pag kinompleto mo ang literal na meaning ng DB-PIGS, baka mapodpod din ang daliri mo sa pagtype nian. Hehehehe.bakit kailangan isingit ang P.I.G.S., generally speaking DBS lahat yan. 3 letters lan yan example. If originally ang tawag mo sa isang tinapay ay simpleng tinapay.
Nilgayan mo ng burger putty, mayonaise etc.tinawag mo ng burger. Tapos meron isa bata n alam n burger ang tawag doon.ngayon pinatangal nya ang burger putty, mayoinase etc. Dapat bang tawagan natin itong 'modified burger' or just simpleng tinapay n lan?
Same with dbs.dinagdagan ng pool, filter tank etc.then tinawag na natin P.I.G.S. Iyong P.I.G.S ay inalis ang pool, filter tank etc., dapat bang tawagin modified p.i.g.s or simply DBS?
Iniiwasan lan natin ang confusions lalot maraming baguhan ang hindi alam how this DBS evolved. Tama po tayo pede nating itawag kung ano ang gusto natin.pero isipin nyo n lan. If kung may anak kang babae n pangalan ay tonirose tapos binigyan mo ng palayaw n tony.kung ang magbabasa ay hindi kilala kau or anak nyo ang iisipin lalaki ito.
So much for this.magkakaibigan nman tayo d2 hehehhehehehe. Ay Naku Ernan, Sige na nga. From now dahil nagsettle down na ako sa walang pool ay DBS na rin nga ang itatawag ko sa fattening pens ko kahit may septic tank hindi dahil sa tae kondi dahil sa hugas labangan. At ang itatawag ko sa farrowing pen ay DBS Farrowing Pens pa rin. At ang Gestating Pens ay ganon pa rin dahil hindi nagbago.conventional pa rin lahat na may concrete flooring. Mabuti na rin itong nagkaalaman sa talagang sequence ng mga pangyayari sa mga pagbabago na nanagyari sa original na design ng P.I.G.S.
Mga Kuyang, Patulong lang. I just receive a txt message from my caretaker that 5 of my breeder tilapias were stolen from the fresh water fish pond. They are worried that the next target shall be the piglets in the adjacent pens. Although we are making precautioons by transferring our pitbull from guarding the main gate to the fish pond/pig pen area, and assigning the night duty worker to sleep inside the pig pens (wala naman kasing amoy na mabaho), I am still interested in putting video cameras. I need help on information on how much it would cost to install one and how to install it.
Thanks for any help. Duckduck wrote: Mga Kuyang, Patulong lang. I just receive a txt message from my caretaker that 5 of my breeder tilapias were stolen from the fresh water fish pond. They are worried that the next target shall be the piglets in the adjacent pens.
Although we are making precautioons by transferring our pitbull from guarding the main gate to the fish pond/pig pen area, and assigning the night duty worker to sleep inside the pig pens (wala naman kasing amoy na mabaho), I am still interested in putting video cameras. I need help on information on how much it would cost to install one and how to install it. Thanks for any help. Regular sa akin maginbentaryo ng mga alaga ko.minsan (nabangit ko din ito s lumang thread) may nwawalang suckling pigs for 3 days 1 ng 1. Ang duda ko sawa. Pero ng manakawan ng motor iyong katabing bahay nmin i'm sure hindi lan basta sawa ito. Sawang may 2 paa.
Now ang ginawa ko naglagay ako ng kubo s may duluhan ng bldg at doon ko pintira isang technician ko + naglagay ako ng TV sa may farrowing area. Bawal tangalin ang tv doon, ayun nababantayan p nila maige.at naglagay din ako ng plywood s taas ng farrowing crate para pede matulod doon ang nagbabantay s umaanak n inahin.
Eioz farm wrote: magastos kung CCTV.ip camera dapat may recorder at hindi lan 1 unit.2nd, still kailngan may nkbantay s monitor, bakit s monitor p magbabantay e pede nman direct n sa piggery.3rd kailngan may night vision ang camera, usually sa gabi ang nkawan dahil if umaga i'm sure magiingay ang mga inahin.dapat may signal ang internet Meron kaming CCTV dito sa work na kuha 6 na locations. $450 presyo pero walang monitor na bibilhin pa. An problema namin sa farm ay walang internet kaya hindi ito puede.
Meron signal ang TV kaya television na lang ang ilagay ko para komportable naman ang guardia. Pinaweweldingan ko ang farrowing house sa bandang itaas sa welder ko para patungan ng plywood at futon na tulugan ng guardia at sa tabi ay palagyan ko ng TV. Pinalagyan ko rin lutuan ng kape at mga supplies. Pinalagay ko don ang ilaw na pampatay ng lamok kaya walang lamok don. Pinatay lahat lamok kaya hindi na nakapagbreeding. Ang makakasama ng guardia ay ang anak ng imported kong pitbull.
May friend ako nagbreeding ng chihuahua. Bili ako ng 2 dahil menos pakain pero maingay kun may tao. Kenbats wrote: Mga kuyang, Bumili ako 4 CCTV + 8 channel DVR - 23K ang set with cables na po. Day and night vision at continous ang recording sa 1TB na harddisk. Hindi pa kasama ang monitor nyan. Pati lamok na lumilipad ay kita hahahaha Dyan ko na huli na ang worker ko na hindi pinapakain ng maayos ang inahin kaya humina ang gatas.
Ayon tanggal na nman ng tauhan:-) Costly po ang CCTV pero maasahan mo na titingin ng investment:-) Kenneth/Ernan, Tinanong ko ang property manager namin dito sa CCTV. Sabi nia kahit walang internet gagana daw ang CCTV basta may koryente at monitor. $500 sa loob ng base, pareho ng kay Kenneth.
Gamit namin ito sa buong paligid ng condominium para protection sa mga kotse ng mga tenants na nakaparking. Uso kasi dito ang vandals.
Puedeng ma-rewind ang continuous recording ng CCTV. Pag bakasyon ko sa December, maguwi ako ng isang set. $230 naman ang isang 32' na monitor. DylaNuR wrote: 'Swineponics'.
I think may posibilidad na gumana ang Aquaponics system sa piggery setup. Kailangan lang siguro ng major modifications.
Come think of it. Yung wastewater galing sa pens dadaan sa settling tanks para sa pagfilter ng large solids. Yung malalaking solids pwede nating gamitin sa vermicompost. Then yung more liquid na slurry diretso na sa digester para gawin biogas. Then yung overflow na effluent padaanin natin sa gravel filter para biofiltration bago natin gamitin na growth medium yung water for the hydroponics garden.
Pwede tayong magpatubo ng vegetables or pwede din forage species like azolla, duckweed at iba. Yung resulting treated water is I think pwede na natin i-pump pabalik sa piggery or other use like for watering plants using a pump powered by a biogas operated generator. Mas sustainable ang system na ito kung mag-succeed.
Available at proven na yung mga component ng system kaya posible na mag-succeed ang concept. Ano sa tingin mo kenbats? Dylan, Sana nga ay mag succeed. Malaking investment din siguro ang iba ibang components. Pag ang isang component sa unahan ay hindi gumana, apektado ang ibang components.
Sana ay meron galanteng maginvest sa ganito at pag nagsucceed ay paki post lang dito para ma-emulate namin kung feasible talaga. Dylan, Possible naman lahat basta may sufficient funding:-) May binili ako na technology para sa aquaponics at saka ko na ito subukan sa piggery kung gagana ang original design sa aquaculture.
Medyo nahirapan lang ngayon mag-import ng components dahil estrikto ang custom. May option nman na kukuha sana ng importer kaso masyadong mapamahal na. Kaya looking alternative ngayon to fabricate locally. Sa binanggit mo na systema, hindi uubra ang effluent na i-dadaan sa substrate media na buhangin dahil babara ito. Hindi pa aabot sa nitrifying bacteria colony ay clog na ang systema. Overall concept is good.
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